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Heinz has been serving German and Austrian specialties in his Morton Grove restaurant for 16 years, but he's not planning an Oktoberfest celebration this month.
'I don't want to compete with the Greek Orthodox church down the street,' he says with a smile. If Oktoberfest has become to restaurateurs what St. Patrick's Day is to politicians, the Austrian-born chef wants none of it for his restaurant.
Instead, he's throwing a jaegerfest, or hunter's festival, through Oct. 27. Although it sounds like merely a matter of semantics, there is a big difference in the menu at the Black Forest Chalet. Alongside the traditional German specialties you'll find such rarities as roasted boar, elk loin chop with juniper berry sauce and pheasant in sour cream gravy.
The Black Forest Chalet's year-round menu may not be quite that exotic, but the variety is broad and strays beyond the traditional in the 'Slim Black Forest' menu that promises a 300-calorie limit.
The warm, paneled interior of the Black Forest Chalet is considerably more inviting than its exterior, which looks like a 'Hogan's Heroes' set decorator was let loose on a suburban roadhouse.
The inside is just fine, two dining rooms and a bar area done in a pleasantly kitschy German country style. Couples and families seem to feel equally at home here tucking into the hearty food.
The entree prices include soup or salad, a choice of boiled potatoes, bread dumplings or spaetzle, and a choice of winekraut, red cabbage or carrots.
The soup of the day during our visit was an excellent Austrian-style green bean soup; for 75 cents extra you can have the liver dumpling soup. The dumplings had been in our soup a bit too long, however, and were crumbly, although tasty.
Entrees are uniformly good, and one, the roast duck, is superior. Amazingly juicy and tender, the bird had been roasted for 2 1/2 hours -- and had not been reheated under the broiler before serving, as many restaurants do it.
The rouladen, aptly described as beef in a blanket, are well-seasoned and tender. The spaetzle are firm and tender and go perfectly with the strongly flavored entrees.
Our waitress recommended the red cabbage over the kraut side dish, and the dish was, indeed, a winner.
The timid among you who don't want to even try German food might order the hamburger, but even that is different, finely minced in the European style. and not nearly as flavorful as the mainline entrees.
Chef Schaidreiter does most of the cooking at the Black Forest Chalet but goes outside to a retired pastry chef for his specialty desserts. Judging by the Austrian-style cheesecake, he made the right move; filled with a blend of farmer's cheese and whipped cream, the concoction is flavored with raspberry jelly and wrapped in delicious hard choolate.
Go ahead and try it . . . tell everybody you ordered your entree from the Slim menu and had plenty of room.
Suburban restaurant review
(fork) (fork)
Black Forest Chalet
8840 N. Waukegan Rd.
Morton Grove
847-965-6830
Open: Dinner Tues.-Sun.
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Entree prices: $7.50-$18.95
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Other: Wheelchair accessible
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Rating key
4 forks: Don't miss it
3 forks: One of the best
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2 forks: Very good
1 fork: Good
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* Reviews are based on an anonymous visit by a Tribune staff member. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.